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We've tested more than 30 of the best women's approach shoes over the past 10 years. For our most recent review, we purchased 13 of the top options to test side-by-side. We wore each pair for miles of trail, hopping through boulder fields, climbing granite slabs, and up technical alpine routes and big walls. We evaluated each shoe's climbing ability, hiking comfort, weight and packability, and support. After months of use, we closely examined them to judge construction quality against our battery of difficult real-world testing. We know that it can be difficult to tell the difference between approach shoes, so our experts have compiled the most comprehensive review available to help you find the perfect pair for your needs.
Our dedicated team of climbers has been reviewing climbing gear for over a decade. Whatever piece of gear you need to round out your collection, chances are good that we've tested it. From the best climbing shoes and top harnesses to belay devices and the best-rated ropes, we've got the scoop on the best products on the market. Want an overview of all our top picks? Check out our list of the best climbing gear.
Editor's Note: We updated this review on April 27, 2024, to add new shoes from Scarpa and The North Face and to update our award-winning lineup.
Weight: 18.7 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Lightweight
Great climbing ability
Comfortable
Can be re-soled
REASONS TO AVOID
Less durable
Sole delaminates over time
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo is our favorite approach shoe, hands down. We love how light it is, and it entirely changes our scrambling and multi-pitch climbing strategies. This shoe climbs incredibly well, and its snug, sock-like fit feels secure on the foot while standing on small edges. The breathable mesh upper keeps your feet comfortable in warm weather and substantially reduces weight. The slim profile can be easily clipped to the back of a harness or stuffed into a climbing pack for those routes that require a walk-off. It is partially made from recycled raw materials and can be easily re-soled, too.
Our testers feel agile, light, and secure in this shoe, and it quickly won our hearts as our favorite product in the bunch. Our main complaint is that the mesh uppers of the TX2 Evo will not protect your foot as well from accidental slips onto sharp rocks or offer the long-lasting durability you might see from a leather shoe like the La Sportiva TX4. For example, after a year of heavy use, the sole on the TX2 Evo began to delaminate on both the front and side of the shoe. That being said, although other models may provide more support or have more durability, no other shoe that we tested has the consistency of high scores across the board.
Weight: 28.9 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram Idro-Grip V-Smear
REASONS TO BUY
Super comfortable
Very supportive
Affordable
REASONS TO AVOID
Doesn't climb very well
Bulky and heavy
Once again, the classic La Sportiva Boulder X has proved its worth with the strong value it presents. This shoe is a workhorse of a hiker and is our go-to choice for longer treks into the mountains or any approach where technical scrambling is not required and you can leave approach shoes at the base. We love their durable build, and the expected longevity of this utility approach shoe adds to its value.
This shoe earned high marks for support and comfort, and its durable design is ready to be put to the test. Unfortunately, its rather bulky structure impacts its climbing ability. While the sticky rubber of the Boulder X is abundant enough for most approaches, if you want to do a lot of climbing in your approach shoes, we suggest looking at a specialist like the La Sportiva TX Guide. But for folks who value a good deal and durability over technical climbing performance, the Boulder X is our top recommendation.
Weight: 21.0 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Unsurpassed climbing ability
Durable yet breathable upper
Stiffness inspires confidence on technical terrain
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Narrow forefoot
The La Sportiva TX Guide is a climbing machine. With burly yet breathable uppers, a stiff midsole, and the most impressive climbing ability of any shoe we've tested, this shoe is made for the mountains. When traveling in technical terrain, our footwear can be an important safety tool — if we don't feel solid or trust our feet, it can be massively detrimental to any alpine mission. Whenever we set out in the TX Guide, we felt confident in our climbing abilities and rarely second-guessed a foot placement. Their slim profile is ideal for clipping to a harness, and these are great for technical rock climbs as well as long ridge scrambles.
The biggest downside to these shoes is their narrow toe box and lack of hiking comfort. This might be fine for some, but our lead tester has wider feet, which were a much better fit for the Scarpa Mescalito Planet. The narrow toe box combined with a super-stiff midsole makes the TX Guide a bit less comfortable to hike in. Still, their climbing prowess makes them our favorite for technical alpine romps and for folks with narrow feet.
You want to be confident that your feet are going to stick to the rock on a runout traverse; this is exactly the type of terrain where the TX Guide excels.
Weight: 21.4 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram Dynamis LB/MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Comfortable and supportive
Incredibly durable
Climbs well
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Wide forefoot
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet is the newest addition to the Scarpa lineup. They are an exceptionally comfortable approach shoe that excels in technical mountain terrain. What sets this shoe apart from the rest is the high-quality construction and attention to detail in the design. The single-piece, multi-density upper is incredibly durable and can withstand consistent wear and tear in extreme alpine environments. There is full rand protection to protect your feet while crack climbing and metal eyelets to help prevent blowing out shoelaces. We put 40 miles on them in the first two weeks of use, and they barely show a scratch. The shoe is really well-designed, highly durable, and built to last.
The main downside of the Mescalito Planet is the price tag. They're easily one of the most expensive approach shoes we've ever tested. They also have quite a wide-toe box that might not fit everyone – if you have a narrow foot, we suggest checking out the La Sportiva TX Guide instead. While you can tightly cinch down the laces of the Mescalito Planet, your climbing ability will definitely improve if this shoe fits you well. Criticisms aside, if you have the purchasing power and these shoes fit your foot well, the reward is a durable, well-constructed shoe that will likely last for years of adventure.
Even after months of trail miles and scrambling through the mountains, you'd hardly notice any wear and tear looking at the tread of the Mescalito Planet.
Credit: Whitney Clark
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The Buttermilks are the perfect place to test the sticky rubber on our approach shoes.
Credit: Erin Elliott
Why You Should Trust Us
Our testers don't shy away from climbs requiring long approaches. We sometimes spend hours approaching the base of a climb. Over the past nine years, we've been putting countless approach shoes through the wringer to find the best shoes to meet our specific needs. We start out by doing product research to slim down the selection of shoes to just the top contenders. We then purchase each pair and ship them off to our expert testers, who painstakingly test each shoe by hiking miles on end, scrambling on low-angle rock, slogging on loose talus, and wearing them for various hiking and climbing styles. We've been testing approach shoes with this method for almost a decade, and we feel confident we can help you find the right shoe.
We specifically test each shoe based on five different metrics:
Climbing Ability (30% of overall score weighting)
Hiking Comfort (25% weighting)
Weight and Packability (20% weighting)
Support (15% weighting)
Construction Quality (10% weighting)
Testing approach shoes is a combined effort from two retired members of the elite Yosemite Valley Search and Rescue team. Having spent plenty of time under the burden of a heavy pack, Whitney Clark and Jane Jackson understand the challenges of moving through mountainous terrain. Both of our testers spend more time in approach shoes than any other style of footwear – estimates average more than 300 days every year. From Yosemite's big walls to the long, talus-filled approaches of Patagonia, our testers have put in the work to determine which of these models excels and which ones fall short.
Though we don't particularly like bouldering in our approach shoes, this was a great way to test the climbing ability of each model, side by side. The Konseal FL 2 climbs better than nearly any other shoe we tested against it.
We brought these shoes up on walls in Yosemite Valley, where they stood up to the abuse of wall shenanigans. The leather upper makes them durable, but you'll definitely notice the weight when climbing with them clipped to the back of your harness.
Talus slogging in Yosemite with the Gecko.
For this review, Jane and Whitney spent several hours researching the best options available, comparing specs to their combined experience of wearing approach shoes for over a decade. After selecting the top models, our testers spent time hiking and climbing in the High Sierra and Yosemite Valley. Additional trips to El Chalten, Argentina, and Cochamo, Chile, were thrown in to ensure that each shoe in this review was put through rigorous field testing. Each was worn for at least 15 miles of trail, and we tested specific climbing capabilities, like edging and smearing, on granite and volcanic boulders. After months of testing each pair, we are confident in our assessments and recommendations.
Breathable and comfortable, The North Face Cragstone Pro is great for long walks but not quite tuned for technical climbing.
Credit: Whitney Clark
Analysis and Test Results
This fact may sound obvious, but there's much more to climbing than the climb itself. Unless you are primarily climbing at an indoor gym, getting to the rock almost always includes some work, whether that's a short jaunt on a manicured, well-kept trail or miles of bushwhacking and talus-hopping in the alpine. While a trail running or hiking shoe may be enough to get you to some crags, a specifically designed approach shoe includes many characteristics not found in your everyday shoe.
Climbers' trails tend to be a bit rougher than popular hiking trails and frequently involve some third, fourth, or even fifth-class scrambling. We looked closely at the top women's models to see how they measure up on several metrics critical to this type of footwear. We walk you through everything you need to know about choosing the right product for your preferences and give you the inside info on how the gear truly stacks up.
Value
We understand that price is a significant influence on your decision-making process. We consider "value" to be the combination of price and performance — essentially, how much performance you get per dollar. Many of the products that we tested in this review fell into a similar scope, which may make your decision slightly easier in the end.
The Boulder X falls a bit short in climbing ability but still edges relatively well on large footholds.
Credit: Will Stanhope
One of the best values we've found is in the La Sportiva Boulder X. This shoe costs slightly less than others in our lineup, offers fantastic hiking comfort and support, and features a durable leather upper that is built to last. If you mostly hike on established trails in your approach shoes, the Boulder X or the similarly designed Scarpa Crux are excellent options for a reasonable price. But if you plan to mix hiking, scrambling, and climbing in your shoes, the La Sportiva TX2 Evo stands out as the best value for this application.
Overall Performance or a Speciality Shoe?
We have to admit it – our testers and many of their climbing partners own multiple pairs of approach shoes. We have our go-to pairs for long hikes and our favorite models for scrambling. If you're looking for a specific use, we suggest identifying the one or two metrics that are most important to you and looking at the highest scorers in those categories. However, we understand many of you may be searching for a single pair for all of your adventures. If this is the case, we recommend considering investing in one of the top performers – these are approach shoes that excelled in all of our tests.
The TX2 Evo required no break-in time and kept our feet happy even after 14 miles of pounding on trail and granite slabs.
Credit: Alywne Butler
Climbing Ability
Sticky rubber and the ability to travel over technical climbing terrain are the main features that separate an approach shoe from a hiking shoe. Many approaches, especially in alpine terrain, require scrambling on third or fourth-class terrain, and it is critical that your approach shoe keeps you safe and secure no matter what. To test this, we took them out on all our climbing adventures, from the sport cliff to the alpine.
Now, more than ever, climbers expect more from their approach shoes – trekking far into the backcountry or even climbing moderate fifth-class routes in them. It's an excellent way to protect your toes from grueling hours in tight climbing shoes, especially if the temperatures are dropping and socks are required. If this sounds familiar, then pay particular attention to this metric. However, if you only do a little bit of scrambling and spend most of your time on well-maintained trails, this parameter may not hold as much weight. In fact, you may even want to look at women's hiking shoes for products that maximize on-trail comfort.
Even though they're not the best for technical climbing, the Scarpa Crux excels on moderate alpine climbs, like this one in Patagonia.
Credit: Diana Wendt
Several components go into the overall climbing ability of a shoe. To thoroughly evaluate the shoe's climbing performance, we individually tested each pair while executing three different techniques: edging, smearing, and crack climbing. As far as this review is concerned, edging is a shoe's ability to help you stand on tiny footholds, from just a few millimeters thick to a few inches. Generally, a shoe's performance here is a function of the rubber's stickiness and the shape or design of the toe box.
The stiff platform of the TX Guide allow them to confidently edge into small holds, even slippery ones on boulders in the Buttermilks.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Smearing is what you do when you use traction alone to stick to a steep surface that doesn't have any features on which to edge or step. Smearing ability has a lot to do with rubber quality and stickiness, as well as the tread design. This is particularly important in places where descent routes often involve trudging down steep slabs. Tread design with flatter lugs and a more surface area that can come in contact with the rock will typically perform better when you need to smear.
The Konseal FL 2 has a narrow profile and a stiff sole making them great for climbing.
Credit: Alexa Flower
The last type of climbing technique we evaluate is crack climbing. We wanted to know how the shoe performed when fitting inside, twisting, and locking your toes into vertical cracks to climb upwards. Often, shoes with a lower toe-box height and a toe box made of more flexible rubber and upper materials are more natural to jam inside a crack.
Even though their leather uppers are ultra durable, the large profile of the Boulder X makes it harder to twist into cracks.
Credit: Lauren DeLaunay
The Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 and La Sportiva TX Guide excel at climbing. The Konseal's snug fit, slim toe box, and definitive edge provide some of the best climbing performance we've ever experienced in an approach shoe. The TX Guide's similar feature set – including a narrow profile, a super-stiff midsole, and a sticky Vibram MegaGrip rubber soles – inspired confidence on technical scrambles where precision and good footwork are crucial.
The sock-like fit, firm edge, and just enough sensitivity help the TX2 Evo excel as a climbing shoe.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Hiking Comfort
As with any product (though perhaps especially crucial for footwear), it is essential that you stay comfortable when you're using the gear. You'll likely spend many hours and miles hiking in these shoes, so it is certainly not okay to get blisters or hot spots or have aching feet. And it's not just about the hike. If you've just walked miles in an uncomfortable pair of shoes, you're not going to be psyched to stuff your toes into rock climbing shoes. In this way, your whole mission's success can depend on getting to your objective with comfort and ease.
A typical feature of shoes designed for technical climbing is to have laces that go further down the top of your foot than a regular hiking shoe or boot. When climbing, precision in the toe is critical, so you want to be able to tighten down the laces for a snug fit. When hiking, however, you want a roomier toe box that doesn't constrict your forefoot or rub your toes. Therefore, many models feature laces that go all the way to the toe area to help make this tightness more adjustable. Of course, this can also offer a more customized fit for people with high or low arches or broader or narrower forefeet. We awarded higher comfort scores to shoes with more versatile lacing designs.
The unique, uber-breathable design of the Cragstone Pro is perfect for long walks in hot climates.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
We also looked at things that aid in a shoe's all-day comfort – we like shoes that have plush tongues and heels, and the interior fabric is important, too. While most of these shoes are not very breathable, ones with mesh uppers are much better at this than leather ones. The North Face Cragstone Pro is more breathable than most of the shoes in this lineup, which is an excellent comfort-based trait if you're often climbing in hot locations. The unique Spectra mesh upper allows for maximum airflow, and the shoes quickly dry out if they get wet from a necessary stream crossing or an accidental step in a puddle.
The Boulder X's interior is one of the coziest that we tested.
Credit: Lauren DeLaunay
Some of the most comfortable shoes in our lineup are the Boulder X and the Crux. Both have plush tongues, heels, and inner materials that are made for exceptional all-day comfort, making these shoes our go-to choice for long approaches. The Mescalito Planet offers a similarly plush interior, while the knitted upper of the TX2 Evo fits like a slipper.
The Scarpa Gecko combine the perfect balance of comfort and performance for hiking and scrambling to the base of a climb.
Credit: Will Stanhope
When it comes to traversing snow and ice, more and more climbers are venturing into mixed terrain in their approach shoes, thanks to today's lightweight strap-on crampons. Some of the shoes in our lineup are burly enough for quick sections of snow, even without crampons. For this, we'd recommend the La Sportiva TX Guide or TX4. These models are burly enough to handle kicking steps and traversing glaciers by themselves but also work well with crampons due to a reinforced toe cap and stiff midsole.
Happy to have good traction with the La Sportiva TX4 and almost be off the glacier.
Credit: Paloma Farkas
Weight and Packability
Weight should always be a consideration when you are talking about gear that is involved in physical endeavors. Weight is less critical if the climbing areas you frequent typically have short approaches. However, when you have a complicated or long approach, weight is usually a significant factor when choosing which gear to use. To determine how important the weight metric is for you, look at your regular climbing routine.
It's a no-brainer that if all things are otherwise equal, you should choose the lightest gear. But, of course, it's not that simple. Unfortunately, low weight is typically a trade-off for other desirable traits. Durability is one of the most significant trade-offs because the most durable materials are usually heavier (mesh uppers, for example, are lighter but less durable than solid leather). Additionally, it's usually inevitable that a comfortable, supportive shoe's features will be more cumbersome as well.
Hiking isn't the strong point of the BD Technician, but we sure did love how these lightweight shoes disappeared into our backpacks.
Credit: Lauren DeLaunay
Other considerations that influence the weight scores for each shoe are its packability and compactness. The highest scorers in this category are products that can easily be stuffed in your backpack or clipped on your harness while climbing a route. When multi-pitch climbing, it's crucial to find a shoe with the right balance between often conflicting considerations. If you're hiking deep into the alpine and need something that strikes a better balance between weight and support, the TX Guide or the TX4 are great choices.
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet (left) are quite a bit bigger than the La Sportiva TX4 (right).
Credit: Whitney Clark
We often need to clip our shoes to our harness for descents off multi-pitch terrain. Every shoe we tested had this clip loop, but some were more confidence-inspiring than others. The North Face Cragstone Pro is the lightest shoe we tested and a great choice if saving weight is the most critical concern. They go practically unnoticed on the back of your harness, are super low profile, and pack easily into a backpack. The TX2 Evo has additional elastic to bundle the shoes together, which means they take up considerably less room on our harness or in our pack.
With a bit of tweaking, the ultralight Cragstone Pro could be a true asset for long alpine climbs in places like Patagonia.
Credit: Whitney Clark
The Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 is slightly heavier than the TX2 Evo and offers a bit more durability. If you have an easy approach in mellow terrain, then the Black Diamond Session is a great option if weight and packability is the highest concern. It is one of the lightest pairs we tested and a good option for carrying up a climb to have shoes for the descent, but it doesn't offer the same level of comfort or support as other models in our lineup.
Climbing in Patagonia with the lightweight Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 clipped to the harness.
Credit: Nicole Lawton
Support
If you expect to carry a full backpack or haul bag with rope, rack, and other daily or overnight gear, the support metric is important to your purchase decision. While most of this metric is hiking-related, aspects of support can also affect a shoe's climbing ability. If a shoe has a stiffer midsole, it will provide more arch support, preventing foot fatigue. If you expect to encounter any snowfields on your approach, a stiff midsole is also valuable to help with kicking steps to cross lower-angle snow patches safely.
Another important aspect of this category looks at how stable the shoe feels when traveling over uneven terrain. If you are rock-hopping across a boulder or talus field, you want a shoe that doesn't feel sloppy. A good approach shoe is secure enough to stay with you on uneven terrain. The last aspect of the support metric is how well the shoe protects your feet. Our favorite shoes have a robust upper and midsole to shield the sides and bottoms of your feet from sharp and abrasive rock edges. Bonus points go to waterproof shoes and products that protect your feet when crossing creeks or snowfields.
The TX Guide are designed with a performance fit and has EVA cushioning in the heel for extra comfort.
Credit: Monica Merlau
Shoes like the La Sportiva TX4 and Boulder X offer the perfect balance of stiff yet flexible soles designed for secure, comfortable hiking over rugged terrain and on established trails alike. Their leather uppers and lateral reinforcements facilitated protection from the elements. While the Boulder X offers a bit more cushion, the TX4 is slightly more versatile because it climbs better while still giving your foot the support you need for long treks into the mountains.
The Boulder X are a comfortable and supportive approach shoe, even over many miles.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Other exceptional climbing shoes like the TX Guide also offer a full rubber toe rand to protect your toes and durable uppers that resist abrasion and keep your feet safe from sharp rocks and boulders. The similarly designed Mescalito provides the same level of support, though its Persair upper is a bit more breathable than models with leather uppers. While Black Diamond Mission LT isn't quite as durable as the TX Guide or Mescalito, their unique bootie-like fit offers a nice level of lateral support.
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet are durable and offer plenty of support for scrambling over miles of boulders.
Credit: Kyle Queener
Another great shoe that draws a nice balance between comfort and support is the Salewa Wildfire 2. They inspired confidence on muddy terrain and talus, thanks to a burly Pomoca outsole that we found to be one of the grippiest of any shoe we tested. Like many of our other favorites, they also have a durable upper and reinforced front toe rand that offer extra support and protection.
Down climbing some muddy terrain in El Chalten, Patagonia is made easy with the thick tread on the La Sportiva TX4's.
Credit: Jon Griffin
Construction Quality
The relentless pursuit of innovation in footwear, from new materials to lighter designs, can sometimes come at the cost of durability. We've seen an increase in prematurely worn shoes, including delamination of the soles and tears in the upper. While all shoes wear out eventually, distinguishing between normal wear and tear and these quality issues is important. It's worth noting that lightweight shoes typically wear out faster than heavier ones, so focus on identifying signs of construction failure rather than expecting the same longevity.
One of the top performers in this metric is the Mescalito Planet. It has a full rubber rand to protect the front of the foot while crack climbing, metal eyelets to protect the laces, and a burly upper to resist abrasion from rubbing on rocks. It is definitely a shoe that's built to last – and it should be, given its hefty price tag.
The Mescalito Planet offer top-notch comfort and support for long adventures deep into the backcountry.
Credit: Whitney Clark
The TX Guide also held up well to wear and tear, from climbing low 5th-class terrain to long hikes in the mountains. These shoes feature PU-Tech-lite heel and toe caps to protect your feet while crack climbing and a durable upper that withstood our repeated beatings. The same high-quality construction that makes the Mescalito Planet so bomber is also replicated in the full-leather design of the Scarpa Gecko. This is a great all-around shoe that exhibited some solid durability in our testing.
Built to last, the TX Guide is constructed with great attention to detail.
Credit: Whitney Clark
One important thing to note is that although the TX2 Evo is our all-around favorite approach shoe, after some pretty intensive use, the sole began to delaminate. Although this didn't happen until after a year of hiking and scrambling, none of the other shoes we've tested to date have had this issue.
We absolutely love the TX2 Evo. But over time, the sole began delaminating.
Credit: Whitney Clark
Mesh vs. Leather
We didn't score these approach shoes for their expected durability, as most of the shoes tested showed significant wear and tear during testing. But from our experience testing shoes for many years, shoes with leather uppers will predictably be more durable than those with mesh uppers. Mesh is great for saving weight and improving breathability, but if you know you'll spend a lot of time in rough terrain (or standing in aid ladders), leather is the definite way to go.
Nothing better than scrambling around the Buttermilks after a fresh Autumn storm.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Conclusion
In the mountains, on big walls, and over boulder fields, we tested each of these approach shoes side-by-side with direct competitors. We gathered solid field data to support our findings, and our expert testers spent months compiling this research to bring you the most comprehensive review of women's approach shoes available. Whether you're a casual climber walking trails to your favorite crag or planning to tackle miles of bushwhacking to a backcountry big wall, we hope our review helps you find the perfect shoe for your needs and budget.
