Black Diamond Vision MIPS Review

The Black Diamond Vision MIPS was released in 2020 and quickly impressed us with its comfort and protection attributes. Indeed, the regular Black Diamond Vision is almost two ounces lighter, comes in a couple of different colors besides just black, is available in a women's-specific version, and will save you a fair amount of money. But since we wear a helmet to protect our brains from a concussion, TBI, or other possible injuries while climbing, the added weight and money are well worth it to get the best technology possible in the MIPS version.

Performance Comparison

Comfort

The Vision MIPS is the most comfortable climbing helmet we have ever worn. The foam is perfectly shaped to fit a human head, which allows the user to feel like the helmet is an extension of their head. This helmet has no tight spots or roomy cavities, while other helmets can often be too round or too elliptical. The Vision MIPS is relatively deep, providing full coverage, but not too deep to feel claustrophobic. We never felt like we had to take the helmet off because of its size or fit. It is easily adjusted with a comfortable ratcheting plastic tension bar in the back, and we love how there is enough space within the helmet to wear a thin, lightweight beanie or even a visor.

The yellow MIPS harness sits inside the helmet, right against the foam. A couple of low-profile, soft pads cushion your head against the helmet. These pads stay in place with velcro and can be removed to be washed or to adjust their position. They can also be flipped upside down if one side gets too sweaty and gross.

Adjustability

This helmet comes in two different sizes, so be sure to match yourself with the right one for your head size. It also has a ratcheting tension bar made of plastic in the back, which is adjustable from each side. Adjustment is easily made by putting the helmet on the head and then squeezing the two ends together along the band until the desired tightness is reached.

While the adjustment system for head fit is easy and comfortable, unfortunately, there is no adjustment on the V-yoke straps around the ears. The chin strap is sewn directly to the V-yoke, which is lower profile and potentially less annoying but offers no potential adjustment if the chin strap rests too tightly against your neck. The chin strap itself is adjustable for length.

Weight

Our size M/L test helmet weighed 9.7 ounces on our independent scale, slightly lighter than the 9.8 ounces listed on BD's website. For a foam helmet, this is fairly heavy, and to be honest, we were surprised to find that it weighed that much because, after many days of wearing it and lending it out, everyone had commented on how light it felt. It is still many ounces lighter than the heaviest hardshell helmets in this review.

Compared to the lightest helmets on the market, the reasons for the extra weight are the MIPS system, the ratcheting plastic size adjuster, and the ABS plastic outer shell. This shell is more robust than simple polycarbonate options and covers a larger percentage of the helmet than the protective shells on other foam options. These things add up to a bit more weight but also offer compelling advantages that are likely worth a couple of extra ounces.

Ventilation

This helmet has 13 vents: six on each side and one in the middle on the back. The two farthest forward vents rest against the sides of the temples, allowing air to enter the front of the scalp. The vents on this helmet are large, and there is a lot of space for ventilation, making this an effective choice in hot weather and for aerobic objectives.

Some users are concerned that this helmet could get hot because it is only available in black. We climbed with it in the sun many times and never noticed our brains cooking due to its dark color. We also must point out that it is made of heavily insulating foam. So the concern about trapping heat inside is far greater than the idea that heat absorbed on the outside might migrate into the helmet and make you uncomfortable. Frankly, if you are way too hot while climbing in the sun, it's probably because you chose to climb in the hot sun and not the fault of your helmet. So while jet black may not be the most optimal color, its role in this helmet's overall performance, or perceived lack thereof, is minimal.

Features

A headlamp can be attached to the Black Diamond Vision MIPS using the two clips on the front specifically for this purpose, combined with an elastic strap in the back that hooks over the headlamp band. This is the best system because it also works well with ski goggles, which you might wear while ice climbing, mountaineering, or backcountry skiing. The two clips on the front are recessed into a foam cut-out so they don't stick out from the helmet's shell, where they can catch slings, clothing, or branches. They don't have a ton of inherent tension, so it is effortless to slide the band up under them, in stark contrast to some models that are so tight it is challenging to get the headlamp on.

The best feature of this helmet is the MIPS Brain Protection System found on the inside, which has been shown in studies to be effective at reducing the likelihood of rotational impacts on the brain. If you like, you can buy a version of the Vision without this feature. But we wear helmets specifically to protect our brains, so we see the additional cost of MIPS technology as well worth the extra expense.

Durability

The BD Vision MIPS is a fairly durable helmet; it strikes the perfect balance between weight and durability. EPP foam is used on all sides of the head, which has some rebound when squished, rather than EPS foam, which compresses without expanding after impact. An ABS plastic shell protects the top of the head, and EPS foam is used under this top plate.

If you are particularly rough with your helmet or lend it out to others, this helmet will be damaged relatively quickly with all of the exposed foam. However, if you are careful with your helmet — which you should be — the foam and shell are durable enough to last a long time.

Should You Buy The Black Diamond Vision MIPS?

With excellent performance across the board, this is the best climbing helmet on the market. It strikes the perfect balance between weight and protection and includes useful features that make it easy to use and durable. Perhaps most notably, it includes the highly protective MIPS system in a lightweight and comfortable package. All of this comes with a high price tag. But even with the inclusion of MIPS, it is priced similarly to other top competitors that don't have MIPS. In short, this helmet provides an overall great value.

What Other Climbing Helmets Should You Consider?

If you are looking for a bare-bones climbing helmet with great protection and durability, the Black Diamond Half Dome is an excellent value and lasts forever, albeit with limited comfort. The Petzl Meteor weighs slightly less than the Vision MIPS and significantly undercuts the market as a high-performance, lightweight helmet. The Petzl Sirocco, the market's lightest helmet, saves a couple of ounces but provides much less protection and durability than the Vision MIPS. And finally, if you are in the market for a climbing helmet that is also certified for skiing, the Smith Summit MIPS is the best choice.