How to Choose the Best Rock Climbing Daypack

The 20L capacity of the MH Hueco is great for alpine objectives a little farther from the road. If only it a had a hip belt to help support the extra gear its capable of carrying.
Article By:
Jack Cramer
Review Editor
OutdoorGearLab

Last Updated:
Friday

What's the best backpack for rock climbing? To find out we went over five of the most popular rock climbing daypacks stitch by stitch during a multi-month test. By the end we had a pretty good idea of what to look for in a good climbing pack so we wrote this article to share our newfound wisdom with you.

Why Do You Need a Rock Climbing Daypack?


It wasn't long after the 1786 first ascent of Mount Blanc before climbers started looking for a comfortable and efficient way to carry their stuff. Almost two centuries later—after technical rock climbing had grown into its own sport separate from mountaineering—backpacks designed specifically for rock climbing began to appear. At first these were rudimentary, little more than minimalist backpacks sewn with strong fabrics. Today that's still largely true except the materials have improved, weights have decreased, and they've added a few convenience features.

When looking for something to carry the gear to keep you comfortable and safe during a day in the vertical, you need a solution that's also reliable and not too annoying to climb with. For most readers we envision this to be a small backpack worn during ascents of moderate, multi-pitch classics completed in a single day. It needs to be able to store things like water, food, layers, headlamps, a camera, and perhaps shoes for a carry-over descent. There are quite literally thousands of backpacks that could do this, so in our Best in Class article we tried to focus on the best designs suited for the most popular climbing applications. Here, we will explore those options and other types of packs that might be useful for different climbing goals.

The Contenders to be Your Rock Climbing Daypack



Rock Climbing Specific Daypacks


This is the style of pack we highlight in our main review article. They're small (16-20L), compact, and designed to ride high on the back so they won't interfere with a harness. They're also tougher than the average backpack, like the burly Patagonia Linked Pack 16L or Black Diamond Bullet, sewn with thicker fabrics to resist abrasion. Many of these packs are modular with removable hip belts, sternum straps, and back panels that let you customize them to your personal preferences and objectives. The best designs also include strong anchor points for secure hauling on the occasional crux pitch (the Petzl Bug is a good example)—no daypack though is built to handle sustained hauling. The burly materials and extra features increase cost so we also included one regular hiking daypack in our review, the REI Co-op Flash 18, because it's a cheap alternative and fairly popular among climbers. Other hiking daypacks can also work as stand-ins for the rare multi-pitcher, but you will sacrifice some durability.

Hydration Packs


Our testers chose this hydration pack for the West Face of El Cap because the route is long (15 pitches)  hard (5.11c)  and predominantly face climbing (no chimneys). Use your own judgement to decide the best pack for your goals.
Our testers chose this hydration pack for the West Face of El Cap because the route is long (15 pitches), hard (5.11c), and predominantly face climbing (no chimneys). Use your own judgement to decide the best pack for your goals.
If you prefer long, face climbing routes in stable weather, a hydration pack might be superior to a rock climbing specific daypack. Hydration packs are typically even smaller and more compact than their rock climbing counterparts, and with a narrower profile that often makes them more comfortable to climb with especially the Osprey Raptor 10 or CamelBak M.U.L.E.. However, these advantages come with limitations. They're usually too small for extra layers or shoes, or really anything beyond a water bladder and a granola bar or two. They're also delicate and should never be hauled or chimneyed. Still, we like hydration packs on sunny, strenuous routes where we know we'll need to drink a lot but don't want the burden of a full-fledged backpack.

Mini Haul Bags


The other option for tackling strenuous routes besides slimming down to a hydration pack is to take the pack off and haul it. This is often the best strategy for success on routes with sustained difficult climbing. Hauling a pack with a day's worth of gear (<30lbs) really isn't that bad, and if you
Black Diamond Stubby going up the East Ledges Rappels  El Capitan.
Black Diamond Stubby going up the East Ledges Rappels, El Capitan.
use a progress capture pulley and static tag line it's even easier. Options available include the Fish Atom Smasher, Metolius Mescalito, Black Diamond Creek 20, and Runout Customs Canyon Pack V2. We also like this kind of pack for in-a-day big wall routes so you can keep the aid gear stowed until you actually need it.

Alpine and Mountaineering Packs


When elevation increases and temperatures plummet, climbers are forced to bring extra gear if they want to stay safe and comfortable. Climbing with a pack is more common in the alpine because less technical terrain makes wearing one less annoying. Alpine packs can be lighter because abrasion is not as huge of a concern and they're usually larger to accommodate bulkier insulating layers. Of the five packs in this review, none are designed for mountaineering—only the Flash 18 has an ice axe loop, but even that is incomplete without a shaft attachment cord. Interested mountaineers should instead check out our review of mountaineering and alpine climbing backpacks.

No Pack


Roxanna Brock on one of the many chimney pitches of Epinephrine  Red Rocks  Nevada.
Roxanna Brock on one of the many chimney pitches of Epinephrine, Red Rocks, Nevada.
As skills develop and confidence for multi-pitch climbing grows, every climber can expect their speed to increase and the frequency they choose to carry a pack to drop. The author—who's completed more than 50 Grade IV or longer routes—was surprised while coordinating this review to realize how seldom he climbed with a pack. It's uncomfortable and slow, and for anything under 10 pitches he just prefers not to bring one. Furthermore, it's also possible to carry the usual contents of a daypack on your person. An insulating layer can be knotted over-the-shoulder, a water bottle, camera, and shoes can be clipped to your harness, and food and headlamps fit inside pockets. Every climber needs to make their own decisions when it comes to gear selection and route choice based on a conservative assessment of their ability and conditions. For certain routes though, the freedom of climbing with no pack could be worth the sacrificed storage capacity.

Considerations for Rock Climbing Specific Daypacks


The Patagonia Linked is light (15.8 oz) and packable making it easy to stuff it inside an overnight pack for use as a backcountry summit bag.
The Patagonia Linked is light (15.8 oz) and packable making it easy to stuff it inside an overnight pack for use as a backcountry summit bag.

Capacity


After you've decided you need a rock climbing daypack, the next question is how big? The packs we tested all ranged from 16 to 20 liters and we feel this is the ideal size for a climbing daypack. The Black Diamond Bullet is the smallest pack at 16L, any smaller and the contents could fit on your harness. The Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 is the largest, much larger and it gets miserable to climb with. Therefore, we suggest shoppers stick to this approximate capacity. If you need to carry more gear than a single pack can hold, it's usually better to add a second pack for the leader instead of forcing a larger pack on the follower. Any of the packs we reviewed will work for a leader or follower. We recommend swapping them though, to always give the leader the lightest/smallest pack. Depending on the route and amount of gear required, it can sometimes be better to pair a rock climbing specific daypack for the follower with a hydration pack for the leader.

Sport vs. Trad (Weight vs. Durability)


The biggest consideration when selecting a climbing pack should be the type of climbing you intend to do. Bolted face routes and sustained chimney systems place dramatically different demands on a pack. Exclusive sport climbers, or tradsters that avoid awkward wideness, can sacrifice durability to enjoy a lighter pack, like the REI Co-op Flash 18. Offwidth masochists and adventure climbers need more abrasion resistance and are better off with a tougher bag, like the Editors' Choice Patagonia Linked Pack 16L.

Packed Size (Streamlined vs. Junk Show)


In our old review there wasn't much middle ground between the sleek exterior of the Black Diamond Bullet and the circus of straps and daisy chains that is the Petzl Bug. If you wanted to carry a rope or big cam on the outside, you had to settle for a pack equipped to carry 3+ of each. That's no longer the case. Both the Patagonia Linked Pack 16L and Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 now combine streamlined exteriors with rope straps and recessed anchor points. The result is two packs with increased usefulness that are still unlikely to snag. We suggest uncertain shoppers select a pack with at least some external carrying possibilities in case they discover they need to strap stuff to the outside in the future.

Features

The Patagonia Linked seemed to be the only small climbing day pack actually designed for hauling. It has a pair of sturdy loops that are long enough to easily clip into a single carabiner.
The Patagonia Linked seemed to be the only small climbing day pack actually designed for hauling. It has a pair of sturdy loops that are long enough to easily clip into a single carabiner.
Haul Points
Beyond the larger considerations, there are a few other features that differentiate the rock climbing daypacks. Chimneys and hard crux pitches often necessitate hauling your pack. The Patagonia Linked is the only climbing pack we tried with two sturdy loops designed for hauling. It's possible to rig the Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 and Petzl Bug for redundant hauling but it's difficult to do with the REI Co-op Flash 18 or Black Diamond Bullet.

Hip belts
Several manufacturers recognize that different climbers prefer to climb with or without a hip belt. Three of the packs we tested come with removable hip belts. Unless you know your hip belt preference, we suggest you chose either the Patagonia Linked, BD Bullet, or REI Co-op Flash 18 and experiment for yourself.

Emergency Whistles
We think this emergency whistle built into the sternum strap buckle of the MH Hueco is a great safety feature.
We think this emergency whistle built into the sternum strap buckle of the MH Hueco is a great safety feature.
The final feature we wish were included on all rock climbing daypacks is an safety whistle. Whistles are light and small and can be a useful signaling device in an emergency. Three packs we tried incorporate a whistle into the buckle of the sternum strap. We hope the Patagonia Linked and Petzl Bug will adopt this safety feature in the future.

Value


The other big decision you need to make is how much you're willing to spend. The premium packs cost $70+, which is probably more than most occasional multi-pitchers are willing to spend. It's entirely possible to climb comfortably with the $40 Flash 18 or many other affordable, non-sport specific, packs. If you don't plan to haul or climb in areas with coarse rock, then the added durability and features of the nicer packs may not be worth the cost.

Jack Cramer
About the Author
Between his passion for all things climbing and his scientific work aboard commercial fishing boats, Jack estimates he gets to spend more than three quarters of each year outside. He hopes to save the world by helping to preserve the Pacific Halibut fishery and by eliminating the waste of misguided gear purchases.

 
 

Follow Us




Unbiased.


You Might Also Like