Arc'teryx discontinued this product in the Fall of 2017
REASONS TO BUY
Long cut
Extremely weatherproof
Very durable
Roomy for many layers
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Fabric isn’t very mobile
Not as breathable as lighter jackets
Arc'teryx Theta AR - Women's Review
Arc'teryx Theta AR - Women's
Credit: Arc'teryx
Our Verdict
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Arc'teryx Theta AR was our Editors' Choice Award Winner for its great weather protection, mountain versatility, and fantastically roomy design - perfect for stacking many layers. If you want a durable shell that will last you 10+ years and performs like no other, look no further.
Performance Comparison
Ice climbing in a snow storm in Silverton, CO didn't phase us as we hacked our way to the top of this five-pitch ice route. The Theta AR was a perfect addition on this cold wet day.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
Weather Protection
This hardshell jacket has integrated the Gore-Tex Pro three-layer construction with an overlaying DWR layer, and an N70p face fabric to create a bombproof hardshell jacket. All seams are taped and it performs amazingly in terrible weather conditions. Unlike the Arc'teryx Beta AR, its long length provides ample coverage over the bum to lock in warmth on cold days and provide more weather protection than all shells (except the Alpha SV) tested.
The water continues to bead after 10 minutes in the shower. All other jackets, except the Alpha SV, wetted out within 1 minute. Weather protection high? Check!
Credit: Amber King
The hood is three-way adjustable and doesn't allow water to funnel in. It cinches down to the point where only your eyes are showing, allowing for complete coverage when you integrate goggles. Like the Alpha SV, the Arc'teryx Theta AR did not wet out after our 10-minute shower test, and instead showed continuous beading. This is a sign of some seriously awesome weather protecting outerwear. This is also why we awarded the Theta, as well as the Alpha SV, top marks for weather protection.
Rockin' out during our shower test. There were no funny water funnels, and the cotton shirt underneath was completely dry after 10 minutes of testing. Yee haw!
Credit: Amber King
Mobility & Fit
As a result of the rigid polymers used in the Gore-Tex Pro jackets, this shell (like the Beta AR and Alpha SV) is a lot louder than the Outdoor Research Clairvoyant. However, this fabric's mobility is a trade-off for excellent weather protection. The Arc'teryx Theta AR does boast lots of room in the arms and torso for layering, which adds a certain level of mobility. Plus, it has an anatomical design specifically for women and has very little lift when putting our hands up in the air. Also - one of the best features is its super long cut. It covers your bum and provides more coverage with its athletic fit.
The cut on the Theta is long, and has a lot of room for layering. It is still rigid, but not as rigid as the Alpha SV.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
Breathability & Ventilation
The Gore-Tex Pro membrane is not as breathable as less weatherproof fabrics like Dry.Q.Elite (Torsun) and other Gore-Tex products (regular and active). However, pit zips are more important with this kind of jacket, and they help make up for the lack of comparative fabric breathability.
Both the pit zips and chest pockets function together as a fantastic ventilation system. Even though the Gore-Tex Pro fabric was the least breathable tested, the vents saved the day when it got warm outside.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
The chest pockets aren't just huge, voluminous areas to hold your keys and energy bars - but they double as another set of vents. Even though they aren't mesh backed, they still provide a little extra breathability when opened. Breathability was good when the vents were open, but when they were closed, we sweat on uphill hikes and long ice climbs. That said, considering the level of weather protection you get with this jacket, the relative breathability is very impressive.
Weight & Packed Size
The Theta AR weighs in at only 15.05 ounces, making it lighter than the Alpha SV and a bit heavier than the Beta AR. This makes sense as the Beta is the Theta's sister jacket and just a shorter cut. This weight is low, and the jacket packs down to a size a little bit larger than the Beta AR. It's still a perfect piece of outerwear on longer, lightweight missions.
The Theta AR is a relatively light jacket weighting in at 15.05 oz. That's a little lighter than the Alpha SV, a lot lighter than the Norrona, and a little heavier than its sister jacket, the Beta AR. It also packs down relatively small too!
Credit: Amber King
Features
This hardshell's features make it a real winner when it comes to cold and nasty weather. The features are comparable to the Arc'teryx Beta AR, except for the long length.
The jacket is harness and backpack strap compatible. It's also super long, which is nice to have for coverage on those cold days.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
The hood is helmet compatible, with three adjustment points. Also, when it's done up, it fully covers your face - bonus for those super cold days. The brim is laminated to bend and hold any position you like, and the one-pull release and tightening adjustments are accessible and glove compatible. Additionally, the pockets are large and in charge - fit your gloves, snacks, phone or lunch! The interior pocket is also a nice stowaway area for keeping items safe. Not only that, but this shell has adjustment points on the hem and waist to make the jacket warmer, with a better fit. The adjustable wrist closures are more burly than the Alpha SV, and the bomber velcro keeps everything in place.
Features galore! Here are just a few! Starting the top left: high arm pocket, voluminous chest pockets, and a great internal stowaway pouch. The helmet has a laminated brim and 3-point, one pull adjustments. The collar has a microsuede chin protector to keep you comfy when it's cold out. The wrists are also roomy, with a bomber velcro adjuster or glove wear over and under.
Credit: Amber King
Durability
Like all the Arc'teryx shells, the durability is unmatched. The three-layer Pro shell is bomber, featuring sealed and tight stitching with a large toothed zipper. Based on our research, we would say a hardshell like this, when properly maintained, will last you upwards of 10 years. This is why we gave it a 9/10. Evidence of a couple of issues in the Beta AR has us wondering if it transcends to the Theta since they are sister jackets. One of the pull tabs on the jacket pulled off. This has us questioning Arc'teryx's construction of small parts. Even so, they do back their products with a lifetime warranty. So if something goes wrong, give them a call, and they will evaluate to determine if they will fix it for free, or for a small fee.
The fabric is bomber. The zippers are bomber. The seams are bomber. Would we call this a highly durable jacket? Indeed. With the proper care, it will last you upwards of 10 years.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
Versatility
This product boasts a comfortable length, pit zip ventilation, and bombproof weather protection, all of which give it a good all-around rating in this metric. The only activities in which it didn't perform best were highly aerobic activities.
Cross country skiing on a warm day isn't the best function for this jacket, but it still did the trick with its venting system. Take this shell with you anywhere!
Credit: Brittany Ahrens
For this purpose, check out our Top Pick for Lightweight Design the Outdoor Research Clairvoyant. Aside from that, it has features perfect for any activity all year long. Take it snowboarding, alpine climbing, hiking, or ice climbing. You won't be disappointed.
Best Applications
Any mountain-based mission is a perfect place for our Editors' Choice winner. From long alpine ice climbs to a day at the ski resort, this shell will keep you dry and comfortable.
Snowy, blustery days on long ice routes is one of the many perfect uses for the Theta AR.
Credit: Jared Vilahuer
Value
At a hefty price tag of $579, this product is definitely on the expensive end of the spectrum. Its weather protection is on par with the Alpha SV, which is $100 more. So even though the price is high, you pay for the exceptional weather protection and durability that sets our Editors' Choice winner apart. If you're looking for a more high value, all-purpose shell at a lower price, check out our Best Buy Award winner, the Mountain Hardwear Torsun - Women's for only $350.00.
Conclusion
The Arc'teryx Theta AR jacket won our Editors' Choice Award for its weather protection, long cut, and versatility that transcends to all mountain sports. It will be accompanying us on many missions to come.
Exploring the mines in Silverton was a fun activity when the temps were too warm and the ice wasn't any good. Hiking around on a blustery day didn't phase us at all with this award winner.
Credit: Jared Vilhauer
—
Amber King
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