REASONS TO BUY
Sometimes only piton that works in horizontal cracks and under roofs
REASONS TO AVOID
Not as secure as Tomahawks and Peckers in most situations
Can't be used for clean aid
Black Diamond RURP Review
Black Diamond RURP
Credit: BlackDiamondEquipment.com
Price: $17 List
By Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief ⋅ Jun 11, 2010
Our Verdict
RURP stands for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. They were the original thin piton for micro cracks. Today, they are very rarely used because Tomahawks and Peckers work so much better in most cases. These were used here and there until Charlie Porter place 30+ in a row on The Shield. That lead opened up the imagination of hard climbers for long, sustained and scary thing crack lines.
On 99 percent of walls, you don't need Black Diamond RURPS. I have only placed a handful in my life and they were usually on first ascents. If you are doing a hard aid route or a first ascent, bring a couple. Otherwise, the Moses Tomahawk and Black Diamond Pecker are much more effective. Tomahawks and Peckers are more secure, easier to clean, and can sometimes be used as clean aid placements.
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
Rurps really only excel at two things: horizontal cracks and under roofs.
Dislikes
RURPS are hard to place securely. You often need to hit them really hard which makes then difficult to clean. Since the only way to clean is often to yank out on the cable, the cable often breaks and leaves them fixed.
It is unfortunate that Black Diamond uses #2 cable for these. As Mike point's out below in the user reviews, these would easily take #4 cable which is wider, stronger and much more durable. Since RURPs often get fixed, the number two cable quickly breaks leaving a worthless steel-filled placement. BD, please go #4 (or at least #3).—
Chris McNamara