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The CiloGear 30L WorkSack has been refined over time until… perfection? The pack's capacity is best for day trips and car-to-car alpine climbing, but can also work for 1-3 night climbs if you're traveling ultralight. Due to its durability (across all 4 fabric options) the pack also performs very well for rock climbs of all types. This is the most comfortable pack (for technical climbing) we've ever tested. If you're looking for a do-everything small capacity alpine pack, look no further.
REASONS TO BUY
Perfect balance of low weight and durability
Excellent features
Super comfy for climbing
4 fabric options
REASONS TO AVOID
Could be too small for multi-day trips (unless you go ultralight)
However, all Cilo packs are made to order in Portland, Oregon, often involving a delay in delivery. Cilo Gear packs are not widely available at major online retailers, so if you can't get to one of their retailers and need something soon, consider the Black Diamond Speed 50.
If you want one all-purpose pack that's also large enough for multi-day winter climbs consider the CiloGear 30:30.
If we were to choose two packs for climbing primarily in North America we'd get the Cilo 30L WorkSack and a Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice Pack, the latter of which is more comfortable for hiking and lighter than the CiloGear 45L WorkSack.
Our Analysis and Test Results
First, a note about pronunciation
Cilo is pronounced "chee-low", not "see-low" or "silo".
Max Neale down climbing on the Evolution Traverse with the CiloGear 30L W/NWD pack.
Credit: Matt Wilhelm
Like all CiloGear WorkSacks, the 30L is offered in multiple fabric options. There are four to choose from:
Standard - This is the cheapest option and was updated in the winter of 2012-2013 to be significantly more durable than the previous version.
Max weight - 980g / 34.6oz
Minimum weight - 590g / 20.8oz
Price - $189
Guide Service - Standard fabrics plus extra durability for $20 more.
Max weight - 990g / 34.9oz
Minimum weight - 590g / 20.8oz
Price - $199
Woven and Non-Woven Dyneema (W/NWD) - Our favorite fabric option, extremely durable and lightweight, likely the best pack fabric in the world.
Max weight - 940g / 33oz
Minimum weight - 505g / 18oz
Price - $500
CiloGear 30L WorkSacks in four different materials, left to right: standard, GuideService, W/NWD, and NWD.
Performance Comparison
CiloGear 30L WNW on the Cilley-Barber, Mt. Katahdin, Maine.
Credit: Max Neale
Weight
Weight is a variable thing for CiloGear WorkSacks. Because you can remove almost every part of any CiloGear pack the total weight of your pack will depend on which features you take along on a particular trip, and what version (fabric option) you choose to purchase.
The standard 30L WorkSack has a total weight of 980g (34.6oz), and a stripped weight (no lid, no hip belt, no bivy pad, no side straps) of 590g (20.8oz). This gives the pack a weight to volume ratio of 0.6 — 1.1 oz/L (depending on how stripped down your pack happens to be). Overall the 30L WorkSack hits a sweet spot in terms of weight for this capacity of pack by balancing weight concerns, with durability. The Speed 30 for example is significantly heavier, while the Mountain Hardwear SummitRocket 30 is far lighter, but not nearly as durable, comfortable, or versatile. The 30L Guide Service version is slightly heavier than the regular version, and the W/NWD is slightly lighter. The NWD version is the lightest overall.
99% of the time our testers use the 30L without the lid. Add a silnylon or cuben fiber pack liner (or a contractor style trash bag) to keep contents waterproof, if needed.
CiloGear WorkSack in the North Cascades, Washington.
Will Dean following mixed terrain on the N. Face of Mt. Snoqualmie with the Cilogear WorkSack.
Credit: Todd Kilcup
CiloGear substantially improved the overall durability of the 30L WorkSack when they updated the design and fabrics in the winter of 2012-2013. We found that the primary complaint with the old version was a lack of durability on the side panels, particularly if you were packing skis on the side or doing a lot of climbing on rough rock. The new version has fixed this by beefing up the durability on the bottom — now VX42 (420d Cordura laminated with dacron X-Pac) — and by putting VX21 (210d Cordura laminated with Dacron X-Pac) on the bottom sides and front crampon panel. The upper side panels and lid remain 210 Cordura with dyneema ripstop. By using more abrasion resistant fabrics on the high wear areas and keeping the fabrics lighter on the non-wear areas, CiloGear has struck a good balance between long-term durability and weight. Overall the 30L WorkSack remains a very lightweight pack considering that it's built to take abrasion, carry ice tools and crampons, and last you for years.
If long-term durability is a major concern, consider the W/NWD version. Though extraordinary expensive the W/NWD packs from CiloGear are ultra-strong, built-to-last in the truest way, AND lightweight. The fabric is non-woven dyneema on the inside and woven dyneema on the outside. Yes, dyneema is the same material your superlight, super strong climbing slings are made of (some people call it spectra). Both the tear strength and abrasion resistance of W/NWD are very very very good. We've tried to beat the crap out of our 30L W/NWD, but even after two years it shows less wear than many alpine packs do after 3 months. Specifically, we've used that pack for: Evolution Traverse in the high Sierra, Regular NW Face of Half Dome, Grand Teton, alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies, ice climbing in the Adirondacks, backpacking in Glacier National Park, backpacking the Lost Coast Trail (CA), backpacking in the North Cascades, climbing the Southern and Northern Picket range in the North Cascades, the Cilley-Barber on Mt. Katahdin (ME), two months of traveling and sport climbing in Turkey (where one tester deliberately and consistently dragged it on sharp limestone), and countless other rock, ice, skiing, hiking, and city day trips. The W/NWD is dirty, but in excellent condition. We are confident that it is the best pack fabric in the world and we highly recommend it if you have the cash to push the performance envelope.
The CiloGear 30L W/NW Dyneema WorkSack on the RNWF of Half Dome.
Credit: Max Neale
Comfort
Generally speaking the 30L WorkSack is fairly comfortable. Our main finding concerning comfort was that if you're planning a one-night trip — and bringing the 30L — you tend to stuff it to the gills a bit. With only a folded foam bivy pad for a frame the pack tends to "round out" a bit in the back. While not particularly uncomfortable, when loaded up full the pack can tend to feel a bit cylindrical against the back. One solution is to take less gear. Or alternatively, take the CiloGear 30:30, which at about 40L is more appropriate for a 2 night trip. One feature we really like is the internal compression strap. This allows you to cinch the load in your pack in against your back by tightening an internal strap that connects the front and back of the pack, bring the load closer to your body and allowing it to ride better on the hips and not throw you off balance.
Compared to other packs of its size the 30L WorkSack is actually rather nice to hike with. It has a padded waist belt for example, something not found on the SummitRocket 30. We found the comfort of the pack to be similar to the Black Diamond Speed 30. Overall the 30L WorkSack was our favorite pack to climb with.
Will Dean belaying on NY Gully, NW Face Snoqualmie Mountain, Cascades, Washington.
Credit: Todd Kilcup
Versatility
Like all CiloGear packs we found the 30L WorkSack to be a very versatile pack. All the straps are removable, and perhaps more importantly, their location is customizable with CiloGear's unique strap system. You can rid yourself up to carry skis, or a sleeping pad, crampons, or remove it all for a sleek exterior. The lid, internal bivy pad frame, and hip belt are also removable. The ability to securely carry ice tools and crampons, have excellent abrasion resistance, all while remaining a lightweight pack overall makes the 30L WorkSack our go-to small alpine bag.
Features
The 30L WorkSack has all the features needed in a small alpine pack, none you don't, and you can remove features when they aren't needed. The ice tool attachment system (the same system found on all CiloGear packs) is our favorite out of all the packs we used. It is extremely simple to use, and extremely secure. Picks are slotted into a fabric slit with the tool neck clipped into place, and the tool shaft secured with a short piece of shock cord and a cord lock. For crampons, you can rig up a length of shock cord to the front of the pack, zigzagging the cord across the front panel, and securing it with a cord lock and overhand knot. We found this to be the most effective crampon attachment method for this pack. Alternatively, you can use two of the straps provided with the pack or strap them to the top of the pack under the lid, on top of the lid, or use the included straps
While the lid has a pocket, the inside of the pack also contains a medium sized hanging pocket. This is big enough for the little things — headlamp, sunscreen, cell phone etc. and it flips up to give access to the bivy pad slot.
The hipbelt is reasonably comfortable and built very tough. (The buckle is unnecessarily gigantic for a 30L pack.) For climbing some of out testers prefer to use the grey strap set as a hipbelt because it's 4+ oz. lighter and performs nearly as well-- it prevents the pack from sliding around and throwing you off balance-- as the larger belt. The large hipbelt can take some weight off your shoulders, but, because this is a climbing pack, the hipbelt is no where near as effective at putting weight on your hips as a backpacking pack, which typically rides much lower. Though this may
The pack is available in one size. Taller folks may want to request the longer shoulder straps. Additionally, CiloGear offers women specific hip belts.
Watch the videos below to see how CiloGear features work.
Best Applications
Car-to-car alpine excursions and one to three night climbs with a light kit.
Value
The standard 30L WorkSack is an excellent deal at $182. The $500 W/NWD version provides unmatched performance and durability; if you don't lose it first, you can give it to your kid. We don't believe the NWD version is a good value.
CiloGear WorkSack alpine rock climbing.
Other Versions and Accessories
CiloGear 45L WorkSack
CiloGear 45L WorkSack. Shown in the standard fabric option.
Credit: CiloGear
Cost - $259 - $700
Capacity - 45-75 L
Weight - Standard fabrics stripped - 27.9oz
Weight - Standard fabrics max - 63.5oz
A good choice if you're looking to do primarily multiday alpine climbing trips
If no retailers in your area carry CiloGear packs they can be ordered from http://www.cilogear.com/packs.html Be aware that there may be delays; CiloGear is a small company and orders can be backlogged.
