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Evolv Shaman Review

While this model excels at steep climbing, it isn't our first choice for technical faces since it lacks sensitivity
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evolv shaman climbing shoes review
For steep climbing on thin footholds the Shaman performs admirably, as the angle decreases though, we prefer a less aggressive shoe.
Credit: Dom Rickicki
Price:  $199 List
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Manufacturer:   Evolv
By Matt Bento, Dom Rickicki  ⋅  Jan 2, 2024
60
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#25 of 28
  • Comfort - 20% 8.0
  • Smearing - 20% 4.0
  • Edging - 20% 8.0
  • Pulling - 20% 7.0
  • Cracks - 20% 3.0

Our Verdict

The Evolv Shaman is an aggressive shoe designed by the man himself, Chris Sharma, for climbing the world's hardest routes. Their unique "love bump" helps maintain the downturn over the life of the shoe and pushes your big toe forward. In the dark ages, the shoes that edged the best were the ones that fit the tightest. Those terrible days of foot-binding torture are gone, thankfully, and now cleverly designed midsoles and "love bumps" allow you to stay snug in the front of the shoe without bone-crushing pain. The Shaman fits right in with the modern arsenal of high-end shoes that combine performance and comfort. See how it stands up against the competition in our review of the best climbing shoes.
REASONS TO BUY
Comfortable
Secure fit
High performance
Great for steep climbing
REASONS TO AVOID
Hard rubber on toe hook patch
Lacks sensitivity
Editor's Note: We retested the Evolv Shaman and updated this review on January 2, 2024, to incorporate our latest findings.

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evolv shaman climbing shoes review
This Product
Evolv Shaman
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Editors' Choice Award Best Buy Award Best Buy Award 
Price $199.00 at REI
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$218.95 at Amazon
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Star Rating
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Bottom Line Most at home on steep terrain but underperforms on techy slabs and facesAn awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniquesWith this shoe, you can climb pitch after pitch without painA simple shoe with solid performance for trad climbingA bargain price for a climbing shoe with respectable performance
Rating Categories Evolv Shaman La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva TC Pro Black Diamond Aspect La Sportiva Finale
Comfort (20%)
8.0
9.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
Smearing (20%)
4.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
Edging (20%)
8.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
Pulling (20%)
7.0
6.0
4.0
4.0
5.0
Cracks (20%)
3.0
7.0
10.0
8.0
7.0
Specs Evolv Shaman La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva TC Pro Black Diamond Aspect La Sportiva Finale
Style Velcro Lace Lace Lace Lace
Upper Synthetic Leather / Microfiber Leather Leather Eco Leather / Microfiber
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining Synthetic Pacific (in forefoot and back) Sentex / PU Foam Hemp Unlined
Rubber Type TRAX Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge NeoFriction Force Vibram XS Edge
Rubber Thickness 4.2 mm 4 mm 4 mm 4.3 mm 5 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Evolv Shaman 2016 model
Evolv Shaman 2016 model
Evolv Shaman Updates — May 2023
Evolv recently revised the Shaman. The photos above show the previous model (left) next to the newest model (right). This new iteration features new aesthetics and a very minor update to fit, including a deeper heel cup and more tension in the rand to facilitate a more secure fit. Otherwise, this new version mostly maintains the same characteristics of the old version (which we still picture here for the sake of posterity.)

Even though Chris Sharma has moved on from Evolv, his signature shoe model, the Shaman lives on. We sized up one half-size from our street shoes as they can stretch significantly over their lifespan. As is typical of all Evolv synthetic shoes, these can get pretty stinky if not cared for properly.

Performance Comparison


evolv shaman climbing shoes review - we put these shoes to the test through all types of climbing routes.
We put these shoes to the test through all types of climbing routes.
Credit: Matt Bento

Comfort


Even with the noticeably thinner tongue, the comfort of the upgraded Shaman is still top-notch. It features a medium-wide last, and the unique "love bump" keeps your toe in the power position without having to rely on a super tight heel cup that presses into your tender Achilles. The low-profile Velcro straps didn't dig into the top of our feet, and were generally unnoticeable when flexing the shoe into painful positions. Depending on how you fit the shoe, the rubber toe patch is a bit firm and dug into the tops of our toes when fit snugly. This feel did improve as the shoes broke in, but it's still worth noting, especially if your feet are sensitive in this spot.

evolv shaman climbing shoes review - for steep climbing on thin footholds the shaman performs admirably...
For steep climbing on thin footholds the Shaman performs admirably, as the angle decreases though, we prefer a less aggressive shoe.
Credit: Dom Rickicki

Smearing


This shoe puts a lot of rubber between you and the rock – 4.2 mm, to be exact. While supportive, our testers struggled to feel small features on low-angle slabs or techy climbs with small holds. We preferred more sensitive shoes with softer midsoles and thinner rubber for these types of faces.

evolv shaman climbing shoes review - when wearing chris sharma's shoes, sometimes the best beta is to cut...
When wearing Chris Sharma's shoes, sometimes the best beta is to cut your feet and scream.
Credit: Matt Bento

Edging


When sized for a snug fit, the Shaman is characterized by a stiff and precise toe that digs into edges well and allows for serious power transfer. We enjoyed this shoe the most while climbing steep terrain characterized by edges and pockets, as the shoes allow you to pull into the wall on very small holds. But as the angle slackens and you need to weight your feet more, the Shaman lacks some sensitivity and begins feeling less secure. This all makes sense, knowing that Sharma has spent the majority of his life putting up new routes on steep European limestone, and this shoe seems perfectly fit for that style of climbing.

evolv shaman climbing shoes review - the stiffer forefoot of the evolv shaman was a favorite among...
The stiffer forefoot of the Evolv Shaman was a favorite among heavier climbers who appreciated the additional support on this precise shoe.
Credit: Dom Rickicki

Pulling


The Shaman excels in pockets, as the sharply down-turned toe grabs and pulls itself into holds. An incredibly secure fit in the arch and heel allows you to exert a lot of force through your toes, so you can pull hard on this shoe all day until your hip flexors and hamstrings give out. The rubber coverage over the toe and on the heel is excellent and provides a proper platform for hooking. Where the Shaman falters in steep terrain is only in its stiffness. For grabbing and pulling with your feet, the lack of dexterity in this stiff shoe is not helpful for hooking sloping holds. For all other aspects of steep, technical sport climbing, though, this shoe is a great choice.

evolv shaman climbing shoes review - here our tester smashes the soft rubber into a shallow pocket for...
Here our tester smashes the soft rubber into a shallow pocket for upward progress.
Credit: Matt Bento

Crack Climbing


The low-profile toe and softer rubber on this shoe might give you an advantage on your technical crack project, but the Shaman is not our first choice for crack climbing. The aggressive downturn on this shoe and stiff character don't allow your feet to flatten out well, which makes jamming in wider cracks particularly painful. Additionally, the velcro straps on this shoe create some discomfort in hand-size cracks. All that said, the Shaman was not designed for crack climbing and this low-performance score shouldn't steer you away from the shoe for other climbing pursuits.

evolv shaman climbing shoes review - a low volume toe box and a wide fit kept our testers happy in...
A low volume toe box and a wide fit kept our testers happy in cracks, even though these shoes were designed with steep limestone in mind.
Credit: Matt Bento

Should You Buy the Evolv Shaman?


The Shaman has won the hearts of many climbers and a fair few awards along the way. When we compare it to other shoes in our test, it lands smack in the middle of the price range for high-end climbing shoes and only misses out due to its comparative lack of sensitivity. For some climbers, this may be desirable for digging into sharp limestone edges – making the shoe somewhat style-specific – but a little less versatile for many climbing pursuits. Heavier climbers may find that the stiffness perfectly supports their weight, while they may feel a bit clunky for lighter climbers.

What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?


There is no denying that when it comes to powerful edging in steep terrain, the Shaman is a venerable force. It compares fairly well to the equally popular La Sportiva Miura VS for edging power. However, a more versatile shoe like the La Sportiva Katana Lace might be a better option for lower-angle face climbing, and a high-top model like the Black Diamond Aspect Pro will serve you better for crack climbing.

Matt Bento, Dom Rickicki