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La Sportiva Futura Review

Employing Sportiva's No Edge concept, this is a sensitive shoe that edges incredibly well
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la sportiva futura climbing shoes review
Credit: La Sportiva
Price:  $199 List
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Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
By Thomas Greene ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  May 6, 2021
72
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#12 of 28
  • Comfort - 20% 7.0
  • Smearing - 20% 9.0
  • Edging - 20% 7.0
  • Pulling - 20% 8.0
  • Cracks - 20% 5.0

Our Verdict

The first time you climb in the La Sportiva Futura, it will let you know everything you've been doing wrong with your feet, and you'll hate them for it. The La Sportiva No Edge Concept forces you to climb more precisely, adapting your style of climbing to the close-to-barefoot sensation of the shoe. The Futura is that sensitive, and brings your toe much closer to the rock than an ordinary climbing shoe. Built with the P3 midsole featured in many premium La Sportiva models, this shoe retains its shape easily under pressure. The fast lacing Velcro closure system works impressively well. All this combined with a soft synthetic upper means it slides on easily, and it fits superbly right out of the box.
REASONS TO BUY
Incredible sensitivity
Great edging
Durability
REASONS TO AVOID
Specalized use
Expensive
Might be hard to resole

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la sportiva futura climbing shoes review
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La Sportiva Futura
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Editors' Choice Award Best Buy Award Best Buy Award 
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Overall Score Sort Icon
72
78
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72
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Star Rating
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Bottom Line An incredibly sensitive and comfortable shoe that excels at edgingAn awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniquesWith this shoe, you can climb pitch after pitch without painA simple shoe with solid performance for trad climbingA bargain price for a climbing shoe with respectable performance
Rating Categories La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva TC Pro Black Diamond Aspect La Sportiva Finale
Comfort (20%)
7.0
9.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
Smearing (20%)
9.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
Edging (20%)
7.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
Pulling (20%)
8.0
6.0
4.0
4.0
5.0
Cracks (20%)
5.0
7.0
10.0
8.0
7.0
Specs La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva TC Pro Black Diamond Aspect La Sportiva Finale
Style Velcro Lace Lace Lace Lace
Upper Leather / Synthetic Leather Leather / Microfiber Leather Leather Eco Leather / Microfiber
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining Unlined Pacific (in forefoot and back) Sentex / PU Foam Hemp Unlined
Rubber Type Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge NeoFriction Force Vibram XS Edge
Rubber Thickness 3 mm 4 mm 4 mm 4.3 mm 5 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Aesthetic Updates


The good folks at the La Sportiva assured us that none of the technical stats we love about the Futura have changed, but they have gotten a fresh makeover. Check out the latest look of the Futura on the left, below, compared to the older version shown on the right.

La Sportiva Futura climbing shoe
La Sportiva Futura climbing shoe

Performance Comparison


Although the Futura looks and feels ultra-aggressive, it managed to stay comfortable, even after climbing several pitches in a row. The supple feel of the shoe allows for easy smearing, and the super sticky Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber felt up to the task. The sensitivity of this shoe is phenomenal. On visually featureless rock our testers were often able to find something to paste them onto.

la sportiva futura climbing shoes review - testing the futura in the needles, ca
Testing the Futura in the Needles, CA
Credit: Bernd Zeugswetter

Edging


Using this metric to assess the Futura is almost unfair. The Futura redefines the standards by changing the way your foot interacts with the rock. Instead of relying on an artificial edge that can bend and collapse, this shoe's No Edge technology allows you to transfer that power directly through your toes, and onto the rock. It also allows for much more uniform pressure on the hold, increasing your foot security and your confidence. We will say this several times in this review: be patient when learning to climb in the Futura. They will let you know when your footwork is getting lazy, like a gentle drill sergeant reminding you to keep it tight.

la sportiva futura climbing shoes review - a side-by-side comparison of the down turn of the futura and miura vs.
A side-by-side comparison of the down turn of the Futura and Miura Vs.

Crack Climbing


We took these shoes to the Needles in California, and they did remarkably well for a high-performance, specialized rock shoe. We found ourselves doing a lot of face climbing in them, not because we had to, but because we could. When we were forced back to the crack for protection, they inspired confidence where we expected them to produce flailing. Though not at home on granite trad climbs, they still climbed well enough that we'd consider using them again. The velcro closure is free from uncomfortable buckles, but it's less than secure for wide jamming.

la sportiva futura climbing shoes review - the futura compared to more traditionally shaped shoes the miura vs...
The Futura compared to more traditionally shaped shoes the Miura VS and Shaman.

Steep Terrain


Imagine the sensation of placing your fingers in a pocket and weighting it, then being able to translate this feeling almost perfectly to your toes. That's how good the Futura is. It pulls into holds with nearly the same dexterity as your hands, with great support, and the protection of 3 mm of sticky rubber. This aspect of climbing with these shoes will probably come more intuitively. The shape of the shoe, the No Edge concept, and the P3 midsole combine to make it easy. The only drawback is the Futura's tall vertical toe profile, which could limit its ability to slither into horizontal pockets.

Sensitivity


Wouldn't it be cool if your foot was naturally tough enough to climb everything by itself? The Futura is as close as we've come to approximating the feeling of climbing at our grade while barefoot. La Sportiva achieved this without any major sacrifices to the shape. Other very sensitive shoes can feel sloppy in spite of a tight fit because the shoe lacks structure. This is another feature you'll have to get comfortable with, but probably the first you'll really love. Feeling confident while standing on something you couldn't get your fingernail on can be an awe-inspiring feeling.

Comfort


This shoe goes on quickly and adjusts easily due to a clever velcro tensioning system that pulls your foot and heel toward the sole. It is stiff enough to feel supportive. It manages to keep your foot in a fairly natural position, in spite of its shape, via some smart engineering. Be advised, however, that some testers complained of acute Achilles pain. If you've ever had Achilles issues with rock shoes, you may want to consider a different model.

la sportiva futura climbing shoes review - crimping on the iron man traverse in the la sportiva futura...
Crimping on the Iron Man Traverse in the La Sportiva Futura, Buttermilks, CA.
Credit: Lyra Pierotti

Value


The Futura is a very specialized shoe, and if you're buying it you have to know that it won't be your only shoe. Unless all you do is send, all the time. It is comfortable, and durable enough for a ton of climbing, but at the listed price you may want to hold it in reserve for the days you really want to put in a big effort.

la sportiva futura climbing shoes review - owens river gorge sport climbing, bishop, ca.
Owens River Gorge sport climbing, Bishop, CA.
Credit: Dave Gardner

Conclusion


We thought we would shred through these shoes in an afternoon at the boulders because the toe seems so thin, but after a year of use, they are just starting to look ready for a resole. This could be attributed to the toughness of the rubber and the lack of an edge, which distributes the pressure of your toe more uniformly on the rock.

This shoe has a very short wear-in period, but it will require some time to build your familiarity and confidence with its unusual edges. The bottom line is that the Futura is at the forefront of a concept that we believe is headed in the right direction, putting them on a shortlist of shoes that will let you climb at your absolute limit, or reach a new one.

Thomas Greene