REASONS TO BUY
Fits irregular rock well
Lightweight
REASONS TO AVOID
Cables can get kinked
No smaller sizes
Difficult to clean
Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Review
A set of Metolius curve nuts
Credit: Ian Nicholson
Our Verdict
The Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts from Metolius Climbing are among the lightest climbing nuts we tested. They achieve this with a unique feature, attaching the cable directly to the nut and eliminating the swage, which results in less weight and bulk. Metolius Curve Nuts pop out less frequently from rope drag than other nuts. Their features may contribute to the fact that they are the most difficult nuts to clean. Metolius offers a decent-size run, but we wish they could make smaller sizes in aluminum; without them, they fall one or two nuts short of a stand-alone rack.
The cables get kinked over time, but curved nut cables are more durable than those on other nuts that fare as well in the placement category. Curved nuts are our top choice for parallel-sided cracks. If you are just looking for a budget climbing nut, we would go with the Black Diamond Stopper.
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
These nuts are light! Metolius achieves this by attaching the cable directly to the nut and eliminating the swage. The absence of swage also makes them feel less bulky on your rack. They have anodized heads and their swages are color-coded to match Metolius cam colors, making the selection of the right size easier. The two curved sides set the nut and keep it stable, making it less likely to pop out from rope drag. This feature made Curve Nuts among the best nuts for parallel-sided cracks. The taper wasn't great; they worked just above average in flaring or pin scar placements. The double curve design also helps these Metolius nuts excel in more featured rock like that at Joshua Tree and Metolius's home crag of Smith Rocks.
Dislikes
The cable kinks over time, although not nearly as bad as on DMM Offsets or Wild Country Superlight Rocks. The cables are burlier than many others but have limited movement; after repeated aggressive cleaning (pulling up on the cable to get it out) the cable can start to bend and fray. Also, it is disappointing that Metolius makes no small sizes for this model. So it is close to being a complete set but falls one or two pieces short. Metolius does offer the Astro Nut, which is made of bronze, but like all non-aluminum nuts, these are far less durable. The curve of the Metolius nuts that helps keep them from popping out also makes them harder to remove.
Value
These are among the more expensive nuts tested. But their low weight combined with an excellent mixture of placement options makes them a good buy. They are a worthwhile purchase for climbers who will pay for weight savings and above-average performance and don't worry that Curve Nut cables need careful handling to keep from kinking.
Conclusion
Metolius Curve Nuts are among the lightest we tested. This makes them a great option for alpine climbers or anyone looking to save weight. Their three-point point curve is tapered nicely and works well in an assortment of placements and rock types, and excels in irregular rock. Buy these if you're seriously counting grams.
—
Ian Nicholson
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