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Mad Rock Belay Glove Review

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mad rock belay glove climbing glove review
Mad Rock Belay Glove
Credit: madrockrockclimbing.com
Price:  $30 List
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Manufacturer:   Mad Rock
By Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief  ⋅  Mar 18, 2010
74
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Belaying - 20% 9.0
  • Rappelling - 20% 7.0
  • Handling Carabiners - 20% 9.0
  • Leading - 20% 5.0
  • Durability - 20% 7.0

Our Verdict

The Belay Glove from Mad Rock is Discontinued as of 2016
REASONS TO BUY
Great dexterity
Rubber on palm makes it less likely you will drop stuff
Relatively breathable
REASONS TO AVOID
Interesting look
Overkill knuckle protection
Hard to find

Mad Rock's Belay Gloves were some of the most head-turning belay gloves we tested they look more like mountain biking gloves than climbing gloves. These synthetic gloves are the only ones tested with rubber on the palms. At first I was not sure about this, but they actually offered some of the best dexterity and handling. Also, it was surprising how well the rubber held up; I had expected it to be gone after a few climbing sessions.

My first reaction to these gloves was that they looked funny. But after belaying with them, I came to like the rubber on the palms. It gives great control both with the rope and with handling biners and belay devices. That said, once you start thinking about paying $30 for climbing gloves, these have stiff competition. It all comes down to how much you like the feel of the rubber on the palm and like the fact this can also be used as a mountain bike glove.

Our Analysis and Test Results

Likes


The thin layer of rubber on the palms gives these great grip on the rope, belay device and carabiners. You have confidence you are not going to drop things. You don't have to grip the rope as hard when paying out slack, which gives a nice feel to it. There are big protectors for the knuckles that are nice if you are jumaring. These also work well as mountain bike gloves in cold conditions. They do not breathe well enough for really warm conditions.

Dislikes


The plastic on the knuckles seems a little overkill. It would be better if the gloves didn't have it and were therefore a little lighter and more streamlined. The knuckles on belay gloves don't wear out that fast; it is almost always the finger tips that go long before anything else.

Best Application


These are ideal for belaying, whether on a multi-pitch route or at the crags. I would also use them for cleaning on big walls because of the rubber on the palms that makes it less likely you will drop stuff. I would not use these for heavy rappelling situations because they are too thin. They also double as mountain bike gloves in cooler conditions (they don't vent well enough for really hot conditions).

Value


At $30 these are toward the higher end of the price scale. They are for people that like the feeling of the rubber on the palm and are willing to pay a little extra for it.

— Chris McNamara
 

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