Reviews You Can Rely On

Comparing Belay Devices

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Awards Editors' Choice Award Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award 
Price $106.95 at Amazon
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$33.88 at Amazon
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$50 List
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Overall Score Sort Icon
76
76
75
73
73
Star Rating
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Pros Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mmAnti-panic handle, top rope and lead modes feed smoothly, wide range of rope diameters (8.5 - 11mm)Compact, ergonomically pays out slack while lead belaying, easy to useGreat for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good valueLightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance
Cons A bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniquesExpensive, switching modes can be annoying, panic handle locks up easilyToo much friction pulling slack while top-rope belaying, hard to find the lowering sweet spotHeavier than the ReversoRappelling and lowering autoblock is hard on the shoulders, brake assist friction depends on carabiner used
Bottom Line The gold standard remains the best and most popular belay device available todayExcellent assisted braking belay device for both beginners and experienced usersAn exceptional device for giving lead belays on the market, but it comes up short for other usesAn excellent value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascentsA great belay device for light-and-fast climbers and alpinists on hard multi pitch routes
Rating Categories Petzl GriGri Petzl GriGri+ Trango Vergo Black Diamond ATC G... Edelrid Mega Jul
Catch and Bite (30%)
9.0
9.0
9.0
5.0
8.0
Lowering and Rappelling (30%)
7.0
8.0
6.0
9.0
7.0
Feeding Slack (20%)
7.0
6.0
9.0
9.0
7.0
Weight and Bulk (10%)
5.0
4.0
5.0
8.0
9.0
Auto Block (10%)
9.0
9.0
7.0
5.0
5.0
Specs Petzl GriGri Petzl GriGri+ Trango Vergo Black Diamond ATC G... Edelrid Mega Jul
Style Active assisted braking Active assisted braking Passive assisted braking Auto-block tube Passive assisted braking
Recommended Rope Diameter (Single) 8.5 mm - 11 mm (optimized for 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm) 8.5 mm - 11 mm (optimized for 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm) 8.9 mm - 10.7 mm 8.9 mm - 11 mm 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm
Recommended Rope Diameter (Half) N/A N/A N/A 8.1 mm - 11 mm Larger than 8.5 mm
Recommended Rope Diameter (Twin) N/A N/A N/A 8.1 mm - 11 mm Larger than 7.9 mm
Weight (oz) 6.3 oz 7.1 oz 7.1 oz 2.8 oz 2.5 oz
Double Rope Rappel? No No No Yes Yes
Belay Off Anchor? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Assisted Braking? Yes, active Yes, active Yes, passive No Yes, passive